Vibrant Colours of Guatemala
Tony Frazer-Price, Client
Conventional wisdom and a chorus, including the Foreign Office website, counselled ‘Dangerous - Don’t Go’. We dithered but went. Glad we did, it was a great experience.
Guatemala is a pageant of vivid colour, lovely people and blessed with some dramatic scenery and has suffered and enjoyed history both ancient and modern.
Dangerous. True you have to be careful and heed advice but in effect we found it no different to other Central and South American countries that we have been lucky enough to visit. Unfortunately this caveat now applies the world over. However as we had our own driver and guide perhaps we were well sheltered.
Ecuador and Peru have the Incas and Guatemala the Mayans. You have to wallow in the history and walk the walk and we did just that. However, for my money, as is the case with endless temples in other countries, it is very easy to get Mayand out. To the casual observer one edifice, apart from size, - and some are enormous – is very much like the other.
Yesteryear we are told that the temples were coloured red or green now just uniformly grey with endless steps – ever higher and higher and then just for good measure even more.
There are still many more ruins to be uncovered but the cost of maintenance is prohibitive. But unlike the sumptuous temples of some Asian countries there are no interiors to goggle at and remove the monotony.
Culture aside many would disagree with my thoughts on Mayan ruins but each to his own. However a lasting memory, from within the Mayan ruins, was hearing the ear shattering roar of the Howler Monkey unbelievably louder than elephant or lion.
Nevertheless the glory for us was the vibrating colour that is Guatemala. National dress is abundant no more so than in the small towns and villages and in the hustling bustling markets.
The Guatemalans use of colour, on buildings and costumes, is literally eye boggling and amply demonstrates how we are prisoners to our own conventions. They merge and mingle primary and solid colours in a way that we would cringe from but it works and it works in spades. Everywhere you will see their blazing use of colour only to be enhanced by their dramatic visually naïve designs.
Markets, such as Solalo, are awash with a myriad of colours. It is particularly noticeable that ladies wear different swathed headgear relevant to their own village or town, which reminded me of India where turbans are a giveaway as to which State the wearer originates from.
We spent time in the Rain Forest but in fairness did not see enough to really appreciate it. Guatemala City, on advice, we kept well clear of – not safe –But we absolutely fell in love with Antigua a cobbled streeted marvel. A UNESCO Heritage Site since 1979 with interesting churches and architecture and an abundance of jade and luxurious beadwork.
Lake Atitalan was a blue crystal wonder. Formed as a crater from a volcanic eruption with water as deep as 330 meters skirted by other volcanoes also fascinating towns each producing lovely paintings or woven and embroidered cloth. Markets abound with vibrancy and colour all with that indefinable zing and you bargain!
You cannot visit Guatemala without being conscious that there is a latent feeling of an aftermath from the 36-year Civil War. There are many who have stories to tell and whilst there is no visible evidence of concern, with war only ending in’96, there is an undercurrent.
When asking about ‘things’ the general feeling was that nothing has materially altered as the same players, maybe wearing different mantles, are still around. But there is no fighting which has to be a victory for the long-suffering people.
Interestingly it was pointed out to us that with the US supporting the Government and Russia the rebels it was the last time that these powers were in direct confrontation.
Enough is enough. A wonderful country. We were so glad to have ignored ‘conventional wisdom’ and to have spent two enthralling weeks in Guatemala.
