9th September

Arrive and dine at Kiva restaurant

You will be met at Istanbul International airport and be driven to the Four Seasons in the heart of this bustling city. After time to settle in and perhaps take a dip in the pool before the sun goes down, your leading guide, Jeremy will meet you in the reception of the hotel. From here he will take you via the Tunel Train to the excellent Kiva restaurant for a traditional Turkish dinner.

10th September

Mosques, Markets and ‘Murder on the Orient Express’

This morning, after breakfast in the courtyard of the hotel, Jeremy will take you up the Golden Horn estuary to the holy district of Eyup. The area is older than central Istanbul and famous for its beautiful mosque, which was the first of its kind to be built in the city. From here you will jump on a funicular to the Pierre Loti Café, with its magnificent views over the city. Loti was a 19th-century French romantic who fell in love with the city, and had a clandestine affair with a local Turkish girl, Ayizade, of whom he wrote the famous book, Ayizade. As Jeremy explains the story behind these two lovers, you will begin to understand the hold that the city has long had on the Western imagination. After a refreshing tea a short walk takes you down to the centre of Eyup where you will visit the shrine of the Prophet’s standard bearer.

You will then be driven to Cariye Cami (Chora Church) to see its outstanding collection of Byzantine mosaics. Lunch will be at a local restaurant with a very pretty garden and views of the church. The cooks use traditional ingredients and cooking methods dating back hundreds of years. From here you can then explore the Spice Market, then Haghia Sophia Basilica and the nearby Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque (rather than the more obvious Blue Mosque).

There will be time to rest and unwind back at the hotel before you are driven to the Pera Palas, where Jeremy will meet you for a delicious dinner in this historic hotel. It was here where, allegedly, Agatha Christie began her most famous novel, Murder on the Orient Express.

11th September

Orhan Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence

Today you will visit one of the city’s most fascinating museums, Orhan Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence, which shares its name with his latest novel. A collection of richly atmospheric period objects, the museum is an extraordinary evocation of 1970s Istanbul, the setting for Pamuk’s own youth. Then you will explore Cukurcuma, the backstreet quarter which is setting both for the novel and the museum and also the grand thoroughfare of 19th century Istanbul. This will lead you to lunch in a well loved café. Then head to the largest and oldest covered Bazaar in Turkey with more than 4,000 weird and wonderful stalls. Along the way you will stop at the haunting Underground Cistern. This amazing structure, supported by 336 beautiful columns, was built by Justinian in the 6th century and is 140 metres long.

Then return to the hotel for a rest and swim before dinner at a restaurant in town, which we will confirm nearer the time. We have purposely left some parts of the trip open to the wind as new opportunities frequently appear in this thriving city. Jeremy has his ears to the ground in order to keep up to speed with the latest and best on offer.

12th September

Sail to Buyukada and lunch with Owen Matthews

This morning you will take a ferry to the island of Buyukada (we will have someone to take your bags over separately so that you don’t need to trail them along). The nine islands that make up the Princes Islands have a colorful history of being home to many banished members of royal families and public figures. In the latter half of the 19th century several wealthy families and foreigners settled on the islands, leaving a legacy of ornate Victorian mansions and beautiful churches.

Here, you will have a delicious and home-cooked lunch with writer and journalist Owen Matthews at his house. Owen has led a fascinating life in Asia and Russia, where he covered the second Chechen War. After a relaxing lunch, Owen and Jeremy will then take you on a gentle visit of the island tour by a horse-drawn caleche.

You will spend the night at the Splendid Palas Hotel in Buyukada with glittering views of the Marmara Sea and Istanbul on the horizon. A special farewell dinner will be on the island at the excellent restaurant of your hotel.

13th September

Sail back to Istanbul and fly home

After breakfast this morning you will board a ferry boat back to the mainland in time for your private transfer to the airport and your flight home.