I travelled to Rwanda with Alby Shale who was in the midst of an incredible project, to build Rwanda’s first International Cricket Stadium. After spending a few days exploring the capital Kigali and visiting the cricket ground site we made our way out of the city to start our journey: to cycle from the outskirts of Kigali into Uganda.

Cycling in Rwanda

Rwanda’s nickname; “the land of the hills” hit home mid-flight, 23,000 feet in the air, and that’s when the nerves kicked in. “What goes up must come down”, I was reassured. My preparation had been cycling up Box Hill one grey Saturday afternoon so I quietly prayed for lots of downhill freewheeling.

Cycling in Rwanda

(Nearly) all nerves subsided by the time we had mounted our sturdy German-built mountain bikes. I even surprised myself by noticing “the fantastic suspension”.

Cycling in Rwanda

Cycling is one of the best ways to explore a country and riding alongside our guide, hearing stories of his time growing up in Rwanda and his experience of the 1994 Genocide, was fascinating and sobering.

Cycling in Rwanda

The lodges

A highlight of our trip was staying in two beautiful lodges along the way, Virunga Lodge and Mount Gahinga Lodge. Each night, we were incredibly lucky to be welcomed by smiley faces, fresh food and a hot shower to get rid of the mountains of dust and dirt accumulated throughout the day.

Cycling in Rwanda

Arriving by bicycle at Virunga Lodge was a challenge due to the condition and gradient of the roads (steep!). But the views were worth it.

Cycling in Rwanda

The lodge is perched high on a ridge with stunning views of the Virunga Volcanoes and the Musanze Valley to the west and Lake Bulera and Ruhondo to the east.

Cycling in Rwanda

Our room was full of character and filled with local materials and patterns; bright yellow walls with pretty turquoise bedspreads in a setting surrounded by lush green grass and views across the lakes.

Cycling in Rwanda
Cycling in Rwanda

We enjoyed a massage in a charming wooden hut followed by drinks around an open fire looking onto the volcanos.

Cycling in Rwanda

A smoky ring circling the top was magical and the sky looked like the aftermath of a conjured spell.

Cycling in Rwanda

Before it got dark, we walked to a circular plot surrounded by locals creating what felt like an arena. The backdrop was the volcano and standing in front were a group of local villagers dressed in traditional tribal clothing.

Cycling in Rwanda

They danced and sang; their energy and beat of the drum was entrancing.

Cycling in Rwanda
Cycling in Rwanda
Cycling in Rwanda

The temperature in the evening dropped, so we headed into the main lodge for supper. We ate with other guests; one couple had visited Virunga exactly 20 years ago and had always longed to return. They shared stories of their adventures throughout Africa. The food was wonderfully homely and it was a lively and enjoyable evening.

Cycling in Rwanda

We were guided back to our room by torchlight where hot water bottles had been placed lovingly in our beds. The views you wake up to in the morning are breathtaking. You can shower overlooking the lake and relax on your large terrace.

Cycling in Rwanda
Cycling in Rwanda
Cycling in Rwanda

The skies are always dramatic and the countryside alive.

Cycling in Rwanda

We continued our journey through Rwanda, travelling north and crossing the border into Uganda.

Cycling in Rwanda

This took longer than expected and turned into a bit of a game as we eventually clocked on that if you didn’t really assert yourself, the line in front of you slowly grew with queue bargers.

Cycling in Rwanda

We biked all day before eventually arriving at Mount Gahinga Lodge in the southern corner of Uganda.

Cycling in Rwanda

Whilst this lodge doesn’t have Virunga’s views, the setting is pretty with seven stone bandas nestled into green gardens.

Cycling in Rwanda

Its rustic charm is inspired by traditional design and building techniques. Inside our banda were two twin beds covered in checked woollen rugs facing an open fireplace. The sun shone during the day and we enjoyed spending the evening sitting around the fire in the main lodge relaxing in preparation for the following morning’s trek in search of the incredible mountain gorilla.

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Caroline Maber
Karen Chapman
Auriole Potter

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